RIMINI, long the archetypal seaside resort, still makes its primary living as a traditional family destination, to which some Italians return year after year. But there is also a newer, more upmarket side to Rimini, as represented by boutique hotels, high-end restaurants and chi-chi clubs. Given Rimini was almost entirely destroyed in the last war, it's surprising to find that the town has a much-ignored old centre that is worth at least a morning of your time. But it's the beach, the crowds and the wild nights that you really come for: Rimini is still the country's best place to party. The resort is best avoided in August, unless you have a penchant for teeming crowds. Out of season, however, it's a pleasant enough town, though bear in mind that many hotels, restaurants and shops are closed and the atmosphere along the seafront is almost eerily quiet.